WHAT IS IT

Banc Spaghetti de Pablo Reinoso
Photo: Juan Tronquoy

IT is an “ideas factory” developing projects in design, advertising and alternative media. IT’s a network of experienced creatives, working for over 20 years on international and local brands and institutions, that offer their talent to advertising agencies, design studio and own clients.

IT è una “ideas factory” che opera nell’advertising, nel design e media alternativi. E’ un network di creativi con oltre 20 anni di esperienza su brand internazionali e locali che offrono qualità creativa e strategica ad agenzie di comunicazione e clienti diretti.

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    ・図

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    表皮の最も表面が「角質層」、そして最も深い層が「基底層(きていそう)」と呼ばれています。

    表皮では、基底層で生み出された表皮細胞が、だんだん上へと押し上げられて、やがて死んだ細胞に変わります。
    その死んだ細胞が角質層と呼ばれていて、角質層はしばらくすると、アカとなって剥がれ落ち役目を終えます。
    この、表皮細胞が基底層で生まれ、そして角質層で死んでいく流れを「ターンオーバー」といいますが、このターンオーバーは表皮の中で常に繰り返し行われています。
    つまり、ターンオーバーより角質層で肌が絶えず入れ替わることによって、健康で潤いのある肌が保たれるというわけです。

    ・ターンオーバー図

    ・表皮の基本その1【角質層】
    角質層は、肌の一番外側の表皮の、更に一番外側にある層で、暑さはわずか0.02mmほどです。
    角質細胞が何層も重なってできていて、その層の中には約20〜30%の水分が保たれていて、肌の潤いにも貢献しています。
    また、角質層はバリアのように体を覆い、外からの刺激から体を守ったり、体内から水分が蒸発しないようになど、様々な役割をもっています。

    ・表皮の基本その2【表皮細胞】
    表皮細胞(ひょうひさいぼう)は、表皮の中間層で、最下層の基底層で生み出され押し上げられた細胞の層です。
    表皮細胞は、角質層(死んだ細胞)になる前の生きた細胞で、摩擦などの外的刺激を神経に伝えたり、アレルギー反応を起こしたりして、体を守る働きをしています。

    ・表皮の基本その3【基底層】
    基底層では、表皮の下の層にある真皮の血管から栄養や酸素を受け取り、細胞分裂によって新しい表皮細胞を生み出しています。
    つまり、真皮を表皮へと変身させる役割をもっているというわけです。
    また、基底層には、紫外線に反応しメラニンをつくりだすメラサイトという細胞があります。

    ・肌の基本その2【真皮】
    真皮は表皮の下の層にあり、主にコラーゲンやエラスチンという繊維状の成分と、ヒアルロン酸というゼリー状の物質でできています。

    真皮の主成分はコラーゲンで、コラーゲンはゴムのように弾力のある繊維状の成分です。
    また、コラーゲンは真皮の中に網目状に存在し、それをエラスチンという別の線維が支えていて、この構造によって、肌の弾力が保たれています。

    ・真皮の基本その1【コラーゲン】
    コラーゲンは「膠原線維(こうげんせんい)」とも呼ばれる繊維状の成分で、真皮の約70%を占めています。
    コラーゲンは古くなると分解され無くなりますが、一方で新しく作られていきます。
    しかし、加齢などにより著しく減少したり変性したりすると、肌の弾力が失われ、シワやたるみの原因となります。

    ・真皮の基本その2【エラスチン】
    エラスチンは「弾性繊維(だんせいせんい)」とも呼ばれ、真皮の約5%を占める成分です。
    エラスチンはコラーゲン同様に、ゴムのように弾力のある線維で、所々でコラーゲンをつなぎとめ、肌の弾力を保つ役割をもっています。

    ・真皮の基本その3【ヒアルロン酸】
    ヒアルロン酸はゼリー状の物質で、コラーゲンやエラスチンの間を埋め尽くしています。
    また、優れた保湿力があるため、化粧水などによく配合されますが、通常、化粧水が浸透するのは表皮の角質層までなので、真皮のヒアルロン酸が補給されるというわけではありません。
    つまり、化粧水などに配合されているヒアルロン酸は、一時的なものというわけですね。

    ・真皮の基本その3【線維芽細胞】
    線維芽細胞(せんいがさいぼう)は、コラーゲン、エラスチン、ヒアルロン酸を作り出す働きをしています。

    ・汗腺
    汗腺は、汗を分泌する細胞が集まっています。

    ・皮脂腺
    皮脂腺は、皮脂を分泌する細胞が集まっています。
    分泌された皮脂は毛をたどって肌の表面に排出されます。

    ・毛包
    毛包は、いわゆる「毛穴」のことで、毛根部分で毛が作られて伸び、
    そして毛が抜ける、というサイクルが繰り返されています。

    ・血管
    真皮の中を網目状に通り、栄養や酸素を運んでいます。

    ・スキンケアの基本とは、まずは自分の肌を知り、やるべきことをCheckする!
    肌の状態は、年齢や生活習慣によって変わってきます。
    状態が変わっているのにいつもと同じケアをしていても、効果が出ないのはもちろんのこと、肌にダメージを与えてしまう危険性があります。
    そこで、ここでは一般的な肌の状態を、年代別に検証してみましょう。
    そしてそれを参考に、自分のスキンケアを見直してみてください。

    ・スキンケアの基本その1【20代前半までの肌】

    ・図

    ・状態は?
    表皮の角質層は潤いを保ち、外的刺激から肌を守る役割もしっかりと果たしています。
    また、真皮のコラーゲンもしっかりとした網目状の構造を保ち、肌の弾力も言うこと無しです。

    ・やるべきことは?
    見た目には若々しくても、肌老化は少しずつ始まっています。
    特に、年齢を問わず徹底したいのはUV(紫外線)ケアですね。
    紫外線のダメージは、若い頃から着々と蓄積され、ある日突然シミとなって現れます。
    ですので、20代のうちから正しい方法でUVケアをする習慣を、身に付けておくことをオススメします。
    また、極端なダイエットや睡眠不足などの不規則な生活は、ターンオーバーを低下させ、肌荒れやニキビなどの、肌トラブルを引き起こす恐れがあるので、注意が必要です。

    ・スキンケアの基本その2【20代後半の肌】

    ・図

    ・状態は?
    肌の若々しさを保つ「エストロゲン」という女性ホルモンがありますが、エストロゲンは、25歳をピークに減り始めると言われています。
    エストロゲンが減少すると、肌の老化が進みやすくなり、小ジワ、乾燥、シミなど、肌老化の初期症状が出始めます。

    ・やるべきことは?
    まずは、生活習慣を見直してください。
    生活習慣の乱れは、肌にとって最大の敵です。
    エストロゲンは加齢だけでなく、不規則な生活やストレスによっても減少するのです。
    なので月並みですが、まずは健康的な生活習慣を心がけてくださいね。

    スキンケアでは、保湿に重点をおいて「化粧水+美容液」でケアしましょう。
    特に化粧水は、ビタミンC誘導体配合のものを使い始めることをお勧めします。
    ビタミンC誘導体配合の化粧水は、長く使っていくことで、シミやシワ、ニキビの予防にもなります。
    それと、UVケアも忘れずに行ってくださいね。

    ・スキンケアの基本その3【30代の肌】

    ・図

    ・状態は?
    肌のターンオーバーが低下し始めるため、古い角質層が厚くなり、シミや小ジワ、毛穴の開きが目立ったり、肌がくすんで見えたりすることが増えてきます。
    また、セラミドが減少し、肌が乾燥しやすくなることもあり、さらにコラーゲンの減少や変性によって、肌の弾力も失われていきます。

    ・やるべきことは?
    30代に入ると、多くの人に老化のサインが見え始めます。
    肌の代謝を高めたり、コラーゲンを増やしたり、積極的なケアに切り替えていきましょう。
    なお、ターンオーバーを促し、肌の代謝を高めるには「ピーリング」がオススメです。
    ピーリングとは、古い角質層を取り除き、肌本来の新しい角質を取り戻すことをいいますが、家庭でもできるものと、美容皮膚科で治療として受けられるものとがあります。
    また、コラーゲンを増やしてシワを予防するためには、レチール配合の化粧品を使うと良いでしょう。

    ・スキンケアの基本その4【40代の肌】

    ・図

    ・状態は?
    30代後半から40代になると、長い時間をかけて蓄積されてきた紫外線のダメージが、シミやシワとなって表面化します。
    また、女性ホルモンの分泌量が低下するため、コラーゲンの弾力が失われ、ほうれい線や眉間のシワ、毛穴のたるみなども現れやすくなります。

    ・やるべきことは?
    30代から引き続き、より積極的なスキンケアが必要です。
    古い角質を取り除き、肌を再生させるためには、やはりピーリングが効果的ですね。
    シワにはレチノール配合の化粧品が良いでしょう。
    ただし、濃くなったシミや深いシワまでは、スキンケアだけではなかなか改善されないので、美容皮膚科でレーザ治療を受けたり、レチノイン酸(レチノールと同種ですが医薬品なので効果が高い)を処方してもらうのも一つの方法です。

    ・スキンケアの基本まとめ1【肌老化は生まれた時から始まる】
    「肌老化は何歳から始まるのですか?」とよく聞かれますが、肌老化は、実は生まれた時から既に始まっているのです。
    なぜなら、まず肌の水分量は、生まれてから減っていく一方で、例えば真皮の場合、赤ちゃんの時には約80%の水分量ですが、20代では約65%にまで減り、その後もどんどん減り続けます。
    これは、主に真皮のヒアルロン酸が減少するためで、肌の潤いを保つセラミドや、弾力を保つコラーゲンも、年齢とともに減少していくからです。

    また、紫外線について言えば、多くの人が10代までに、一生分のあびる紫外線の約6割を浴びているとも言われていて、紫外線の影響は少しずつ蓄積し、シミやシワの原因となります。
    このように、生まれた時から少しずつ起こっている老化ですが、それが実際に目で見えてくるのは、25歳を過ぎた頃で、見えないところで肌の変化は日々起こっているのです。
    ちなみに、加齢に伴う肌の衰えを食い止めることを「アンチエイジング」といいますが、アンチエイジングを始めるのは、早いに越したことはありませんね。

    ・スキンケアの基本まとめ2【歳を取ると肌が硬くなり、シミができやすくなる理由】
    肌は、表皮の定期的なターンオーバー(生まれ変わり)によって、若々しさを保っています。
    基底層で表皮細胞が生まれ、ターンオーバーにより角質層で死んで剥がれ落ちていくまでの期間は、20代で約28日間と言われています。
    ところが、加齢とともにこの速度は遅くなり、40代では約40日かかるようになると言われています。
    なお、ターンオーバーの速度が落ちると、表皮が薄くなる一方で角質細胞がたまり、角質層が厚くなっていきます。
    つまり、死んだ細胞の角質層が厚くなるわけですから、当然肌は硬くなり、くすんで見えるようになるというわけです。
    また、肌の再生が遅くなるということは、シミが残ったり、ニキビなどができても治りにくくなります。

    ・スキンケアの基本まとめ3【エストロゲンが多いと肌は若々しく美しい】
    女性ホルモンの一つの「エストロゲン(卵胞ホルモン)」は、肌に大きな影響を与えるホルモンです。
    美しい肌を体の中から作り出すためにも、肌とエストロゲンの関係についても知っておきましょう。

    エストロゲンは、卵巣で作り出される女性ホルモンの一種で、このエストロゲンと肌にまつわる興味深い話があります。
    まず、20人の女性の年齢を男性に当ててもらいます。
    そして、その20人の女性の血液を調べたところ、実際の年齢よりも若く見られた女性のほうが、エストロゲンの量が多いという結果が出たのです。
    つまり、女性はエストロゲンが多いほど、若々しく見えるというわけですね。

    エストロゲンには、肌老化を引き起こす活性酸素を取り除いたり、肌の弾力を保つコラーゲンを維持したりする作用があります。
    しかし、残念ながら25歳頃をピークに、エストロゲンの分泌量は低下していきます。
    また、無理なダイエットや過度なストレスなども、エストロゲンを減少させますので、加齢による減少はともかくとして、生活習慣によって減少させるようなことは絶対に避けたいものですよね。
    なお、エストロゲンを薬で増やすことはリスクを伴うので、婦人科治療などで必要な場合を除いては、極力避けた方がいいでしょう。

    ・最後に
    最後までお読みいただき、本当にありがとうございました。
    私なりに「スキンケアの基本」について書いてみましたが、いかがでしたか?
    繰り返しになりますが、スキンケアの基本とは「まずは自分の肌を知る」から始まり「それに合ったケアをする」ということがとても大切になります。
    ぜひ参考にして、そして実行してみてくださいね。
    それと、スキンケアの基本については、無料で配布している「オリジナルアドバイスBOOK」で、さらに詳しく説明しているので、是非、そちらのほうも読んでいただけると嬉しいです。

    【スキンケアの基本がわかるオリジナルアドバイスBOOK】はこちら→ http://www.skincares.jp/entry/ebook

    【説明文】
    近頃スキンケアのことで、不正確な認識を持った女性がけっこう多いということにびっくりさせられます。

    肌のお手入やコスメの情報は、テレビ番組などで、四六時中ものすごい数が配信されていますが、続出する新しい商品や新情報にごまかされ、どれが事実なのか判断できなくなってしまっているみたいです。

    そうは言っても、科学的な見解から裏づけすれば、本当の事はいつも一つです。
    いい替えれば、正しい基礎知識をもっていれば、たくさんの情報にはめられることなど無くなるというわけです。

    ということで、このたびは「スキンケアの基本」と題しまして、肌の正しい基礎ノウハウについて、皆さんへお届けしたいと思います。

    くわしくは下記のサイトをクリックしてください。

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  208. ここ数年、見た目に気を使う男の人が急に増え、男性の肌ケアが普通になってきました。

    とは言っても、未だに「肌の手入れは女子の領域」と諦めてる男性が沢山いることも実態です。

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